Maria Peterson comes from the far north of Europe. Born in Sweden, she tells us how passion is strong than cold water.
Hello girls ! Could you please introduce yourselves, telling us where you’re from and where you are living ?
Hey. Alright, my name is Maria and I am originally from Sweden, though I havn’t really called it home for about 10 years.
At the moment I am living in between the Lofoten Islands in Norway and Cornwall in England. I would’nt say that I am crazy about surfing, I just really love it and life is better with surf in it.
You have grew up in a country where waves are rare or totally inexistant. How are you become surfer ?
You actually do get waves in Sweden, but unfortunatley you just get windwaves up there, no groundswell. But even though we do have surf in Sweden I didn’t start there.
I went on a surfholiday with a friend about 10 years ago, in Hossegor, France. And at the time I really fell in love with both surfing as a sport and the whole lifestyle. And ever since then, I have just travelled and lived places where you can surf. Life is just better when you live where there is surf.
What is your first memory of surfing ?
I remember that I really liked the feeling of standing on a wave, and from the first wave i took, I really wanted to surf what the other ones called “a green wave”, that was my goal for that surftrip which I also reached, and after that- i was hooked.
At which age did your passion for surfing become more than a hobby ?
Surfing is still my hobby because Im not making a living while surfing, but its defenatly becoming more and more of a hobby that is addictive. If I don’t surf for a few days I feel like there is something wrong, so I guess surfing is not like any other hobby. It’s like feeding an addiction.
What kind of waves do you dream of ?
I dream of long, head high righthanders in warm water so I can surf in bikini. Those are my favourite waves.
How do you organize your life in order to have more surf ?
Last year I studied online from a Swedish University, which gave me the opportunity to live where ever I can surf.
I havn’t had a 9-5 job for a long time, because of the time flexibility that is needed with surfing. Its a feeling of freedom to have a job where you can change your shifts after the surf forecast. I guess I am organising my life more towards and around surfing, it comes naturally because its such a important part of my life.
You don’t know what the future has in store for you but in a perfect life, do you want to be pro surfer ?
I don’t think I ever will be a pro surfer, its a long way to get there in both my surfing and in my ambition.
Do you have a boyfriend, or husband ? does he surf too ?
No I don’t have a boyfriend.
How do you do to find a good shaper ? where do you buy your boards ?
I found shaper in Fuerteventura, Charly at Little Devil Surfboards. He has been shaping my boards for a while and I really like the quality of hes boards.
what would you say to the other girls growing up far away from the waves and who are dreaming of surfing?
If you are dreaming of surfing but live somewhere where there are no waves, I would say that the best way is to either move to a place with waves or go on longer holidays every year so you will be able to learn how the ocean and the waves works. And don’t stop dreaming !!
Cet article est également disponible en : French