They are from Switzerland, Germany, Sweden or Belgium. Even though these countries don’t have surf spots as good as Australia or France, you might be surprised to discover these ladies, with nothing but passion, reached a really high level of surfing.
Because of their passion, the girls adapted their lifestyles in order to surf as much as possible. Maria decided to keep her studies at home so she can continue to live at her new surf spot. Alena left her job being a teacher to travel around the world. The real trophy goes to Lily, who left her home at such a young age. She explains : “Well, I pretty much changed my whole life. When I was 12 I left home for the first time to go live with a host family in France for 3 months to I surfing. I repeated the same thing when I was 14, when I went to Costa Rica for 6 moths. I have now been living on Lanzarote for the last 5 months and I will stay here for another year and half“.
These ladies truly show it. Surfing is an addiction that constantly draws us closer to the ocean. Just having their feet on their boards is one of the best feelings. The addiction sinks in during the first session, even though it might not seem that way for everyone. Alena tells us about a great experience she had : “An absolute nightmare haha! When my ex put that huge surfboard the very first time in my hands at Lacanau, he said: “Just paddle and than stand up, you will be fine, see you later!” and he went surfing. I drank at least 1 liter of saltwater and I got smashed pretty bad to the shore. To be honest, I did not enjoy at all!”
Cet article est également disponible en : French